Cotton Island (Pulau Kapas)

Day 1 (4^th September 2016).

I was clueless of where should I  lighten my heart when Mars is on the course collide with Venus, Relationship thing is way too tricky for me. I was thinking about Phi Phi Island or some Islands off Acheh but I’m really financially tight at the moment. my Venus, Yen Ting, is asking me to do it locally.

If do it locally, I think Cotton Island is the cheapest and fastest gateway, with consideration of water quality and environment. Pulau Kapas is only 2.5km length and 1.5km width, a small sleepy Island.

So far, there’s no direct bus to Marang Jetty but bus from Kuala Lumpur to Kuala Terengganu is most welcome to drop passenger at Masjid Sultanah Nur Zahirah along highway No.3 (AH18), bus station in front of “Pejabat Risda Daerah Marang”, to be precise, which is 750m from the Jetty (11mins walking distance). However, stopping at Marang is a special request to driver and should talk to the driver beforehand.

The 5.5hours journey start from 11pm in Kuala Lumpur reached the dark cold town of Marang at about 4.30am. Street lights shine accompany by mild rain sprinkling on my face is all I can remember before I dip back into my sleep, on the bus station. There’s plenty of guesthouse and hostel dotted around the area but since it’s only about 3hrs away from the first boat trip, never mind lah!

I would definitely consider to stay in Marang next time, as the beach is as good as the Island. Food on land is much cheaper and more variety than the Island.

Day2 (5^th September 2016)

Dawn of the day with sun emerged between the sea and sky. The calm sea at Marang Waterfront mirrored the sunrise, created a beautiful masterpiece greeting the day.

The wet market open at 6am. Mak Cik (local women) started unload their goods, preparing to open for business. Colorful Kuih Muih (local cake) vividly cover their counter. Nasi Minyak, Nasi Kerabu, Nasi Lemak and Mee Goreng (fried noodles) is sold at RM2.50 each! Probably less than half the price back in Kuala Lumpur.

However, to have breakfast while enjoying the stunning view of sunrise, Marang Waterfront is the place. So, wait a few more minutes and walk a few more step, the effort will be paid off.

Learned from my past experience. I stock pile some mineral water and food at the wet market before get my ferry ticket near the jetty. Food and water in the Island is often more expensive than the land.

The Ticket counter open at about 7am and the first boat is 9.00am. Nothing much to do in Marang except continue sleep or loitering about the nearby. Most of the shop were still not open until 9.30pm except for the wet market.

Gemia Island& Kapas Island (Cotton Island) is only 5km from the land (15mins by boat) and is visible from land.Water is crystal clear and fishes is abundant. Though it supposed to be a marine park(marine conservation area) but fishing can be seen everywhere in the jetty, both on island& land. I guess that would cut down a lot of food cost in the island and have the freshest meal ever, especially my favorite squid which is plentiful there. I would definitely consider it for next time.

A return boat ticket cost between RM30 to RM40. I got mine from MGH Ferry Company for RM40. There’s also plenty of tour package ranging from honeymoon 3days2nights, diving, snorkeling to Island hopping, selling at the ticket counter.

As usual, I notice they too adopt the same garbage disposal system like Perhentian Island. A pontoon as garbage collection point for incoming boat, bring along the garbage when return to land for disposal and treatment. There’s also sufficient signage to show their effort toward zero waste, and clean& green township. 

What surprise me is the population of cat seems uncontrollable yet there’s a cat food donation drive right before jetty entry. Not discounting its unusual number is due to the availability& accessibility of food and cat-friendly environment.

Boarded the first boat to the Island. Nothing so surprise as the Island is already visible from the land, the journey is a really quick one. Maybe the RM40 return ticket also cover the off season profit (business in the island closed due to choppy wave) during the monsoon (Mid- September to March).

I’ve booked Longsha Campsite a day earlier. As its name implied, it’s a campsite with basic facilities such as bathroom, toilet, and fully function kitchen. Electricity is a luxury only available from 6pm to (maybe) 12am but light is on at night.

Well, can’t expect much for RM10/night. Snorkeling equipment is for rent at RM15/rental regardless the number of days (as long as in continuum). Of course there are others activities such as boating, visit bat cave and diving which outside my budget. Bat cave is not necessary as bat and owl come to our campsite feasting on rodents at night. Its Cotton Island food chain ecology show for free.

The bat size is more than a foot to 2 feet in height, resembling much like winged fox. Mouse and squirrel dwelling on the trees is feeding by human leftovers and in return it sacrifice its life as bait for bat& owl show.

It seems like some hiccup in Longsha campsite that I have to wait more than half hours for them to prepare my tent which apparently is already there just need to clean up. For some reason, even after waiting, the tent is not only not cleaned up but come with an extra spider size of a tennis ball. I’m particularly coward with arachnid. Luckily another friendly staff came to help me clear the pest.

Also notice, only my tent was not given mattress though there’s plenty idling at their store. I don’t know why, discrimination? I don’t know. Other places in Terengganu might have the problem or was it because I’m the only Chinese there? but racial discrimination is  extremely rare within my travelogue especially places like Longsha is quite reputable for backpackers.

Whatever it is, I did enjoy my stay in Pulau Kapas. My first day already get my body sunburn. Too much snorkeling, too much things to see and too curious about the world under the sea.Coral between Gemia Island and Kapas is the best. Spotted some star fish, sea cucumber, sea urchin, clown fish and variety of colorful aquatic life. They told me there’s even turtle munching on sea grass in the morning between 6am-9am.  

I love the simplicity of Kapas Island, though food variety is limited and there isn’t much marine activities but that is exactly what I’m looking for, a laid back relax atmosphere. Lying down the hammock and do a bit sunbathing while listen to Toungue cosmos drum beat from a French backpacker.

Toungue Cosmos drum is a very unique musical instrument made from steel. It also call Hang drum or Calypso drum, a very tradition folklore musical instrument. I was told it could also be a collective item owing to its rarity.

Terengganu is still a very conservative and Islamic state which is good but also might become impediment to attract international tourist. Though sunbathing to some exposure of flesh is a norm but certainly open sex is no way near the acceptable level. There’s even a Caucasian girl warned me that topless is dangerous here. It seems like my boobs have manifest the women side of my intersex sex. There’s even people called me shemale/ladyboy in their rather loud conversation. But I’m ok. I recognize the fact that I’m an intersex.

Honestly, I would prefer to have more distinguishable sex, man or female. However, it is god decision and I openly accept it. Despite all the insult, I’m still lucky to have what I was born into. Many intersex were force mutilated, castrated and denied freedom to be what their nature gender. I guess though mine is not an elephant but not too bad to have a tapir.

My stay in Kapas let me see both the beauty and ugly side of human. I belief sororal bond (sisterly) is stronger than fraternal. Those girls were trying to keep me away from undesired consequence of half-naked but I think my little tapir would be sufficient enough to answer to authority query if they ever try to grill me.

Perhaps I need some testosterone injection to be more masculine and less boobs. 

Golden hours (7pm) is stunning. The golden yolk was sandwich between the sky blue mirrored with tranquilizing sea water. I settled down upon a small family-run restaurant. The Mee goreng (Fried noodles) is especially delicious in the sunsetting milieu with my exhausted body, as though my soul was fuse into the nature.

There’s a group of fifty or so form 3 students from Kelantan joined the fun. To my surprise, not even one Chinese or Indian student! How come a school sponsored program have no none-Malay?

Those boys look like really Islamic. They seems like praying most of the time. At first, I thought it was a Muslim school or religious trip but they told me it was just a normal school holiday trip, accompanied by teachers.

Night fall with rain fall. The heavy precipitation burrow us deeper into the darkness. extra canvas sheet cover over our tent making it  extremely humid, stuffy and dark inside. It was not a very pleasant night to sleep.

Day 3 (6^th September 2016)

Rainy night was uncomfortable plus I hardly maneuver inside the tent as my whole body was in pain as a result of sunburn and sizzling needle poking sensation felt throughout my body.

Crawled out from the tent as though butterfly emerge from chrysalis. I felt fresh and light. Strolling along the beach with breezing wind is really enjoyable. I love the metamorphic karst protruding from the beach layer by layers.

Instant noodles as brunch so not to waste my mom effort packing it, at the same time test the campsite's cooking facilities. It’s very basic but serve its function. There’s also girls doing macramé with corals collected from beach. I wish I could learn from them. Though those girls are good in weaving the Macrame, so did they pretty much exposed boobs.

How I wish Yen Ting was with me so maybe I would upgrade my accommodation to something for couple and that thunderstorm night would be best to mute the noise inside the room.

Kinda have the impulsion to back to Kuala Lumpur for her. So instead of spend 5 days there, I alert the camp staff to arrange my return boat at 3pm the day itself. It kept me waiting till 4.30pm  before finally back to Marang.

Phone battery was flat so no choice, I part myself at KFC to refill my stomach at the same time recharge my phone.

This small town make no sense for  bus to Kuala Terengganu to pass by frequently. Last bus is at 5.30pm. Fortunately I boarded a interstate express bus at the same bus station the earlier bus drop me off. The driver is kind enough to fetch me for free, save the RM2 (1hour journey from Marang to Kuala Terengganu).

Kuala Terengganu is like a new town with some major refurbishment here and there.  I stay a night at Space Inn, a newly established hostel. The stuff is very friendly and location is good (10mins walk from bus terminal). Met a Japanese girl who confused me as Japanese. The tattoo on my foot have a lot to say about my association with Yuriko& Japanese. She is pretty but I know where my heart belong. I guess the tattoo also save me lots of hassle  explaining to others Japanese girl.

Day 4 (7^th September 2016)

No complain for the hostel though no breakfast is provided, unlike what others hostel would. I think the owner is not even familiar with how a hostel should works but the couple is always smile and friendly. 

My search for breakfast is not difficult at all. Chinatown is walking distance. There’s plenty of choice and they are affordable enough to have 2^nd and 3^rd round.

Kuala Terengganu is just my transit back to KL for Yen Ting. My bus return KL is 11pm so I have plenty of time to spare which I did make use of the free shuttle bus to Islamic Civilization Park (Taman Tamadun Islam). It’s a half hours journey. It seems like there’s some racial conflict between the Malay and Chinese in Terengganu. The Malay driver is not very friendly to me. Not bother to answer my query about the bus schedule. Nonetheless my luck is not completely drained, there’s a Chinese aunty come to assistance. I know I sound a bit racist here but that is exactly the atmosphere there then, Racist!

The Islamic Civilization Park is actually an island by itself. It has got 21 scaled miniature monuments of Islamic architecture important  from around the world. If you are not very much into Islam or architecture, I doubt you would be interested venture into the park. The crystal palace probably is more alluring. As for me, I’m into the architecture and anthropology of it.

Ironically, I think the park’s infrastructure is over lavishly provided despite many part of its monument is obviously deteriorating due to poor maintenance. I don’t understand why need to provide bicycle where one monument to another is just a few step away!

In fact, Kuala Terengganu is overly developed in comparison to its pace. My personal view is that the city is not mature enough to absorb the development. It take time to mature. Supply respond to demand create health economy growth otherwise overly supply need strategy to bring demand at least to its equilibrium or else risk the incident of white elephant.

Back from the Theme park, Central Market is next. Central Market or known as Pasar Besar Kedai Payung, located a bit further toward the end of Chinatown trail. Ground floor is fill with mountains of keropok (fish cracker). The second floor have a shady food court found in the dim light with flies and local dining together. Also have there was hardware shop, fashion, batik and traditional craft. I brought my hammock for RM15 which sold S$70 in Singapore. Very good deal.

Turtle eggs also sold like legal in the market. The genuine effort to conserve biodiversity is very much in doubt though I know government and NGO have been fighting the up hill battle to curb illegal turtle eggs trade that unfortunately is also the hard changing traditional delicacy in this region. 

Chinatown is my favorite in KT, the food, architecture, old charm and friendly people. But the already falling new structure is not very appealing. The newly build bridges and parapet wall along the river is a shame to Malaysian builders. Obviously it’s a substandard workmanship coupled with lack of supervision and totally blind authority that accept it anyway.

Anyway, my eyes is on those rusting abandon wagon. It look to me that it’s designed wrongly. The wheel is not suitable for outdoor but with few modification, it would be perfect for my first meal program’s food carrier.

After exit the hostel, I spent long hours freezing in KFC waiting for my bus bring me back to my Yen Ting. I guess I’m not that solo traveler anymore. My heart now is filled with my love one and all I want to be with her.

Drop off point at Marang Town.

New born kitty

Famous for its Sotong cathces.

Zero Waste!

Food for stray cat

boat to Cotton Island

Gemia Island 

Longsha camp

Inside the tent

Hala Fruit (No for eating but chewing)

The Lighthouse

Pulau Kapas Jetty

Wall Menu

Owl visit

Toungue Cosmos Steel Drum

Well

Solar cell, power the island.

Traditional Malay house

Do you see the fishes below jetty? 

Wagon seating waiting to be rust. would be good to transport food for school 1st meal program.

Interior of free shuttle bus to Terengganu State Musuem& Islamic civilization park. 

Itinerary of the shuttle bus

The bus schedule the chinese lady kindly borrow me. 

The free shuttle bus and stupid rude bus drive clad in blue shirt. 

Me in Al-Haram Mosque, I'm a Tuan Haji now No lah,, it's just miniature.

Crystal Palace

Very international signboard. Well done!

Goat milk ice cream

Illegal turtle eggs selling like legal (beside the Keropok Ikan).

Me in the Terengganu Palace

New but already falling off. Obviously lack of concrete cover.

Waste of public money if anyhow approve substandard project.

Moving house, literally, they moved the house.

Environmental conscious wall decor.

Here the trying to save turtle but next street is selling turtle eggs!!

Cave in due to lack of proper soil compaction or insufficient erosion protection. This can be seen everywhere along the shore. Really sad. 

Try to save the shark yet depicted it like monster? 

Lock my Yen Ting with Me forever.

The famous Hainan rice

A little graffiti to espress my love for Yen Ting

Wagon that have the proper wheel on the road.

back KL for my Yen TIng

Waiting at Space Inn

No logic for flat elevator that wasting space and more expensive. Head room also fail. Non-compliance to UBBL but still passed? This is at UTC (PB Square).

Totally fail by-law. how come so narrow?

How the Architect got the license? Fire hose reel at such narrow space? this is a high-rise commercial building.  I suspect it's dumb Architect, builder, developer, authority& occupants. 

Fancy USB charger at every seat.

Stylist bus interior